When Jean-Maurice Raffalut took over his centuries-old family Domaine in 1973, he ushered in a new era for all of Chinon. The region is today famous for single vineyard wines, but no one had thought to do that before him. His son Rodolphe inherited the Domaine in 1997, and he’s continued his father’s work, making intensely earthy Cabernet Franc from six named sites, alongside Chinon’s most pleasant surprise, the white Chenin Blanc. Chenin seems to be famous everywhere along the Loire River except here in the beating red-heart capital of Cabernet Franc country, but the same limestone clay soil that brings Cabernet Franc to life works for the white grape too. Aromas of pear, honeycomb, slate, toasted peach and applesauce arrive with just hint of clay – to remind us that we’re still in Chinon. The palate is sharp, full of acid and full bodied enough to contain it, along with flavors of Granny Smith apples, lilac, honeysuckle and pear. A delicious and versatile pair for most things from the sea.

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