If you have enjoyed Arneis before, you have Malvira’ to thank. If you haven’t, we can think of no better introduction than with this, the most important and often the best Arneis house in the world. There was a time not too long ago when this grape came close to extinction. It’s so hard to farm the name literally translates as rascal. It is prone to mildew and when it ripens the grape sheds its acidity almost within hours, without which wine is dull and flavorless. Malvira’ was a relatively unknown Roero winery who happened to own the oldest surviving Arneis vineyard in the world, first planted in the fifteenth century. Wines from this vineyard quickly became their calling card, offering proof of the grape’s quality with concentrated, complex white wines in a part of the world where red wine is king. Their single vineyard Trinita Arneis is well worth hunting for, but start with this entry tier wine, which is still among the most complex and delicious of the genre. Aromas of green apple, lemon, tangerine, gardenia, lavender, white clay and saffron. The full bodied palate is zesty fresh, with lemon and orange and apple and rosewater flavors and a touch of sandy minerality on the finish. Pair this to roasted chicken, Genoese seafood stew, or halibut.