This is the sort of wine you need a spoon to eat properly. Maurizio Marchetti’s classic, superior Verdicchio always pumps iron, but in 2022, it has unusual weight and intensity even by its own Mr. Universe standards. The grapes for Marchetti’s Tenuta del Cavaliere hang nearly an extra month on the vine, soaking up all the autumnal sunshine of the Marche’s languorous, cool but sunny Octobers. Maurizio doubles down on texture in the winery, doing everything he can to slow down the cool fermentation. The wine spends weeks with the lees, gaining another creamy layer every day. The end result is a wine that smells of tangerine sherbet, fresh peaches, slate and a dusting of white pepper, before a palate that is the vinous equivalent of an overstuffed couch. Oranges and mangos, oregano and brine cut through, but the wine wins with sheer lush texture. Zesty, filled over the rim with fresh fruit, but big in every dimension. This is a wine for roast chicken, turkey, halibut, or pork, for risotto of every make or potato leek soup. It is also that sort of wine so uninhibitedly unctuous that you may forget to cook once you pour a glass. Consider yourself warned.