When we’re looking for wines to feature in our newsletter, we want wines that make us happy and we want wines that make us think. This is one of those lucky wines that does both. Born in the shade of the Alps in Piedmont’s northwest corner, Erbaluce di Caluso can often rise out of the crowd of often anonymous Italian white wine to show us something truly different. This “Pajarin” from Agricola Chiussuma is maybe the best Erbaluce we’ve ever had. Lemon pepper, honey-roasted pears, white strawberries, chamomile, white tea, slate with tarragon growing out of it. Palate is of Meyer lemon and candied ginger, orange zest, salt wrapped in that slate infused minerality. Full but surpassing fresh and lively, finishes of oranges and salted lemons. This wine will sing an aria alongside Charcuterie or mushroom-rich pasta dishes native to Piedmont, but it would also work well with an earthy dal and saag spread.