In 1890, the Primo family began bottling their own wine for the first time. Already respected for the quality of their grapes, their business was a success, and their neighbors passed the word that they were getting wine “from the house with the sundial” That word in Italian is Meridiana, and the name remains a sign of quality five generations later. The family makes a wide array of wines, but Barbera is the core of their production. Le Quattro Terre is made from all four of their vineyards, intended to be the everyday wine for all sorts of meals. The wine is vinified and aged for just 8 months in concrete vats, and it comes through the nose and across the palate without pretense or stuffiness, but with plenty of raspberry and strawberry fruit, rosehips, cocoa, and brambly underbrush. The texture is just as Barbera should be, medium weight with fresh acid and pleasantly firm tannins. The finish lingers with raspberries and figs, and makes us all hungry for more risotto, polenta, or burgers with mushrooms in them.