To be honest, proper Riesling season is 365 days long, but if there is a special season to enjoy the grape’s unmatched ability to pair to any dish, to suit any occasion, and to bridge the gap between thirst quenching drinkability and mind-bending complexity, that season is winter. Consider this wine from Weingut Josef Leitz, since 1985 under the direction of Johannes ‘Josi’ Leitz. In the small Rheingau region, Leitz is considered one of the most important producers and a champion of high quality wine, something the Rheingau was once famous for. Most of his wines come from the western side of the Rheingau, a steep embankment of quartz and slate that faces almost directly south over the Rhein planted nearly solid with Riesling. Josi farms for low yields and has resurrected several ‘grand cru’ vineyards that had fallen out of use, but his Dragonstone cuvée is a neat summation of the estate; clean cut, vibrantly mineral, and delicious. A nose of orange, strawberry, lemon curd, slate, and a touch of salt leads to a palate of strawberry peach sundae with honeycomb and citrus fruits, a kiss of residual sugar is more than balanced by waves of acidity that lead to a razor sharp, crisp finish. Pair with most anything, but it will do special favors for spicy dishes.