The Disznoko cru has been home to grape vines since at least 1413 when it appeared in local records. In 1757, Europe’s first vineyard Crus were established by royal decree, and Disznoko was a first growth, a status it maintained until Soviet-era bulldozers arrived to erase Tokaji’s centuries-old status as Europe’s finest wine. In the 1990s, Hungarians began to rebuild their winemaking heritage and this was one of the first vineyards they started with. Tokaji has always been famous as the original botrytis-infused sweet wine that inspired Sauternes, but the dry sort of Tokaji is a product of this age, because it’s easier to make and sell dry wine when re-starting from scratch. It has been a happy discovery, because all the tension and complexity that makes the region’s iconic Furmint perfect for sweet wine also makes for a fireworks display of a dry wine. This latest vintage from Disznoko starts with wafts of pear blossom, chamomile, gooseberry, Rainier cherry, lemon and lime. The lightly creamy palate has an electric charge of acidity, with concentrated flavors of lime and lemon with granite and chalk undertones that echo through the finish.