The border between Austria and Hungary looks wrong. It zigs and zags hither and to, an artificial line that once caused a fair amount of strife. For forty-odd years this little patch of sunny farmland around the town of Sopron was a loose seam in the Iron Curtain, and people on both sides preserved the memory of a time when there was no border at all. The Weninger family have been among the winemakers of Burgenland or Sopron rebuilding their ancient family properties that once straddled the border, and this Europaschian wine, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir from Hungary and Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt from Austria, is one happy result. A ‘Ponzichter’ was a person who grew beans between their grape vines in both Hungary and Austria, in a time when most vineyards were polycultural farms. This pale red gives a literal breath of fresh air, with aromas of red currant, red cherry, raspberry, pipe smoke, burnt orange peel, and wet clay. On the palate, cranberries and raspberries share time with kumquat, smoky soil, orange zest and white pepper, all bouncing merrily along on a sine wave of acidity. This is a chillable red for Charcuterie boards and the start of picnic season.