Francesco Giuntini ran Selvapiana for four decades, from 1957 to 1997, during which time he essentially created the modern era for Selvapiana in particular and the Chianti Rufina appellation in general. This was always the wilder side of Chianti, higher in elevation, with more forest and wild boar roaming between the vineyards than in the Classico zone. It was Francesco’s belief that the area had potential to rise above the humble reputation as a source of simple country wine. He started making a single vineyard Riserva, the Bucerchiale, for which the winery is now famous, and modernized the winery substantially over his tenure. Selvapiana is today the standard bearer for Rufina. These are Apennine foothills, and the flavor of Sangiovese here is a bit sharper and redder than normal. This workaday Chianti Rufina is probably the purest example of this sort of Chianti, and a stunning value. Aromas of dusty cherry, cranberry, saddle leather and fennel sausage lead into a precise palate, with supple, clean-edged tannins, refreshing acid, and flavors of raspberries, fresh herbs and dry clay. Fermented in steel and aged in neutral oak, this wine is totally seamless. If you pair this to steak, it should be a delicate cut, but pastas, burgers, and pizzas are also perfect.