Chantal and Eric Coudert-Appert brought attention to Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois in the 1990s with dependably brilliant wines born of a simple formula: As little intervention in the vineyard as possible, concrete fermenters and large neutral oak barrels. Now under the steady hand of Frederic Montangeron, the principle remains the same, let the grapes do the talking. Chiroubles is the highest elevation of all the Beaujolais crus and it is also about the rarest, since vines don’t particularly enjoy growing in these granite heavy soils and tractors can’t work on the uneven ground. The domaine is based mostly in neighboring Fleurie, but they have a tiny corner of vines up here, where harvest tends to come a full week later than in the rest of Beaujolais. At its best, Chiroubles tastes like this one, with vivid aromas and vivacious texture. There’s notes of raspberry and cranberry and tangerine and peach, with brushes of white pepper and granite. There are flavors of red berries and underbrush, granite with aromatic herbs growing out of the cracks, there’s citrus that lingers on the finish with a gentle dusting of tannin. This is a wine for bloody steaks and burgers, well-composed cheese boards, sandwiches with dill pickles in them.