Matt Kinne’s classy McKinlay Pinot Noir has been one of the best values in Oregon for at least a decade. From time to time, he finds a few barrels in his cellar that don’t comply with his first rule of McKinlay Pinot Noir: Thou Shalt Smell and Taste of Red Fruit. When that happens, he makes Mesa Pinot Noir for an even better price. Matt’s signatures are all over this wine: concentrated fruit from low yields, no yeast additions, and very little new oak used. There’s nothing wrong with these grapes, beyond the rich aromas of black cherry and black raspberry, pepper and roses and toffee. The palate has the same even-tempered balance of the McKinlay wines, with a core of dusty tannins soaked in raspberry, orange zest and clay earth. This is straightforward, hearty Oregon Pinot Noir to be served with a minimum of fuss alongside salmon and fingerling potatoes.