Marco and Roberto Gemme run the Fontanassa estate in Gavi from an old farmhouse dating to the 16th century. Their grandfather purchased the estate in 1921, and for most of the next sixty years the family sold their grapes off to other wineries, but when the brothers took over the estate they determined to give winemaking a try. We are living in a better world because of that, because Fontanassa – and in particular this cheerful and fresh Cà Adua bottling – is among the finest Gavi we’ve had. Famous for centuries as the perfect pairing for Genoa’s seafood bounty just over the mountain pass, this edition of the wine offers a delicate nose of lime and lemon blossoms, green apple, and pineapple with hints of lavender and szechuan peppercorn. Lean and crisp and bright on the palate, there’s waves of acidity, fresh but not sharp and filled with spring floral notes. Put this wine next to flaky white fish, octopus, clams, or shrimp.