Rioja as it is known today owes much to the French. During the slow-rolling invasion of Phylloxera through Europe’s vineyards, there was a period in the late 19th century when the louse had not yet crossed the Pyrenees. Bordeaux winemakers, their livelihoods in tatters, fled across the mountains to Rioja, bringing Bordeaux’s technical and commercial knowhow to a region of small farms and family-sized bodegas. Olivier Rivière has come a century or so later, but he still comes to Rioja with a new French perspective. Though he is originally from Bordeaux, his approach to making Rioja is rooted in the Burgundian idea that the quality of wine is determined by the quality of the site rather than time spent in barrel. This Rayos Uva cuvee is his version of ‘bourgogne rouge’, drawn from diverse sites across Rioja. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and Garnacha, it ages in a mix of concrete, steel, and neutral oak. You will not find Rioja’s stereotypical pickle and vanilla notes here, only fresh, deep black cherry and raspberry, subtle baking spices, dry sandy soil, and orange zest. Medium bodied, velvety textured, and a delightful pair with smoked meats.