There are a lot of cheerfully inexpensive white wines from Vinho Verde. The last ten years we’ve seen and tasted as the region has quietly reinvented itself. Those fizzy, genre defining and generally flavorless wines of the past are steadily losing ground to powerfully mineral wines with texture and often impressive complexity. In this new world of Vinho Verde, it’s even more impressive when something stands out from the crowd like this one from Quinta do Eremizio and winemaker Antonio Monteiro. Farmed organically except in extreme vintages and raised in steel tanks with no additives, this is a blend of Loureiro and Treixadura and a brilliant example of what this region has to offer. Aromas of lemon and lime zest with a strong note of the vineyard’s granite soils. The palte has pleasantly silky texture with razor sharp acid before a crisp and clean finish of citrus pith, white flowers and salt. Serve with tinned fish, fish and chips, or clams in butter.